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Peak Mountain 3

Southeast Face

FA Paul Irby & Ben Folsom Jan. 28, 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the right hand crack system on the Southeast face (the face opposite the mouth of Culvert Canyon).

P1- Start in some kind of loose rock protected by a bolt about 10 feet up. Then climb the first tier of the roof through a thin hands slot to some huge jugs. Then climb the next 10 foot roof with fists to a 5.10 offwidth above. The belay is bolted. 5.11

P2- Climb a 5.10 offwidth/squeeze through a weird loose flake. After the flake the crack splits. Go left to a small ledge. Climb up and left from there through some very scary loose rock to an unprotected 5.8 corner above to a two bolt belay on a big ledge just below the summit.

Scramble to the summit and downclimb (one hard move off the ledge.

Descent- Rappel the route in one 60 meter rappel or two shorter ones.

This route has a few sections of really bad rock, but for the most part is excellent. The 20 foot roof on the first pitch is great!

Protection

A couple sets of cams from #0.5 Camalot to #4 Camalot.


Routes in Culvert Canyon Block Tower


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    Southeast Face
    5.11
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