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Peak Mountain 3

Jaw Gains

FA Jonathan Tedrow, Bri Goold
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

​Glide up the first few ledges and take a rest at the last big ledge halfway up the route. Here the route starts getting chaussy and pumpy. Climb up to the first roof, get a good side pull, and find the jugs up and to the right, some of which are hard to see. Find a sloper and a crimp to an enormous jug that looks like it wants to fly off the wall. Get a good stance to pull a left hand. Get your right hand on the arête to pull up and into the chimney. Climb up the chaussy chimney to the finish. We recommend cleaning the route a bit around the finish. Let me know what you think of the grade I thought it was closer to a nine.

Location

The start is 15 feet left of The Hydrofax and 130 feet right of Seventeen. There is a large ledge about 20 feet up.

Protection

Currently toprope only, Make sure to bring a static line or a lot of sling to build the anchor as the closest suitable trees are about 20-30 feet from the edge making rope drag awful