Living the Dream

Start in the shallow right facing corner just below a foreboding chimney/pod. Climb straight up on cracks and in-cut edges. Undercling and traverse left at small lip/roof left of the chimney/pod. Continue up in the left facing dihedral. There are a couple of (crux) thin sections and there is no need to do any fist jamming. It is possible to finish via a flake going out to the left or go straight up and then do a traverse (directional helpful) to the bolted anchor.

Overall this is a really fun route for the grade, with good pro and nice position. Watch for loose rock, especially when traversing to the belay/rap on top.

Approach via the trail at the lower base of the First Cliff until you reach the far right side (still before the Right Tower). Look for a short, fat chimney/pod in the upper section of the cliff. The route starts in a shallow right facing corner just below the left hand plumb line of the chimney/pod.

Double cams to 2" - Lewis/Moynier suggest to 3.5" but we did not use anything larger than a #2 Camalot. If anything, bring more small gear (up to a .75 Camalot). Bolted anchor with links out the left at the top. We rapped with two ropes, a single 70m might be tight (knot ends).