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MapDescription
New school style IC route with a bolt protecting cruxy entry moves. A difficult progression from powerful face/tips through second digit locks sets you up for a tight finger lieback/jam corner and a short pinch to the anchor.
Very cool I thought!
p.s. Despite what the guidebook says or anyone else spews, I think the bolt is important because of the quality/thinness of the crack plus the minimal amount of rope out. Many people fall at that first move. The bolt, as the first piece, protects the integrity of the rock/route...
Location
This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.
Protection
Bolt, (I used, in order) 0 Metolius, 1 Met, 2 Met, (3-4x) 3 Met, 2 Met, 1 Met
Routes in The Optimator
- 32Two Scoops5.12Trad