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Peak Mountain 3

Prime Directive

FA Margaret Glover and Trevor Shumaker
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a free variation to Dan McDevitt's 2001 aid route 911. It goes 99% free at 5.12 A0. The route follows thin crack systems, seams, knobs, steep face, and dihedrals up the steepest part of the Fifi Buttress; no wide climbing required. Most cruxes are protected by bolts.

P1-3 makes an excellent 5.12 climb on its own. Bring a kneebar pad for the steep and gymnastic p3.

Location

Approach as for voyager, starts about 75 feet right of the start of the "Voyager Ledge" at a right facing corner above a VW size boulder.

Descend by rapping with an 80m rope or walking off (3rd class).

Walk up to the summit of Fifi then head south til you get to the cliff above. Turn west following a ledge and crossing over the buttress west of Fifi. Descend a 2nd class gully until you can head back east toward the base of the route. Follow the base of the cliff until you reach the start of the route.

Protection

2 ea. to #4. Nuts. Offset cams for p4. Lots of draws. Maybe 15. Bolt count on topo is not accurate.