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Peak Mountain 3

Soap on a Rope

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Description

I drilled anchors on this route but did not find the climbing to be good enough to warrant drilling it for lead. There are several ways to do this route: mantling up the smooth slab and working rightleads you to a large roof with somewhat chossy rock, pulling over this is probably a 10- move, perhaps more difficult for shorter people. If you move left and go through the smaller section of roof, there are several very small, difficult to find crimps that create a one or two move 5.11. One can also move very far left to a small section of crack that is probably 5.6 or so.

Location

Directly opposite of sentence to hang on the short towerlike formation. To toprope it just walk back up on the normal trail and walk over to the edge where you can see the anchors for the new 12's. Look down and you'll see bolts on the tallest part of the formation.

Protection

There two bolts with hangers at the top. Since you have to go to the top anyway, just put draws on and grab them on your way out.