- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1 Begins on Lunch ledge, 40' left of the S Direct. Stem up grooves for 20'. Traverse right to a shallow crack in a right facing corner. Climb straight up (poor pro) to a low angle slab below a wide roof. Belay at the left end of this roof by a bunch of chickenheads about 10 feet ABOVE the slab at 2 bolts (5.9 R/X not obvious). This dangerous pitch can be avoided by climbing the first pitch of the S direct and traversing left across the easy slab to the belay (5.7).
Pitch 2: Follow the short crack above, then slab up and right along a ramp to a steep section. The airy belay is 20' higher (5.10). The first bolt on this pitch was added after the first ascent.
Pitch 3: Move up & right to a beautiful flake, similar to the "Zion Curtain" in Bells. At the end of the flake move back left and up to a bolted belay - great pitch! (5.10a).
Pitch 4: Ascend the slab above to the chimney breaking the headwall above to the top (5.8+).
This route has been recently re-bolted.
Location
Starts on Lunch Ledge, left of the S Direct.
Protection
Standard traditional rack. If you climb the first pitch you may want to bring a few large copperheads!
Routes in The Thumb Area
- 7Spring Fever5.10a/bTrad