Mithrandir

This route is:

5.10- R

5.11- G

Shares pitches 1, 2, 3, and 6 with Sorcerer's Apprentice. This is a variation to that route.

I found and completed this old project while rebolting Sorcerer's Apprentice. Mithrandir is a bit less scary, as well as a bit more direct and sustained than the original route.

All hardware is 3/8" and stainless.

Pitch 1: 10a, 115'

Fun and well protected crack system. A bit grassy at the bottom.

Pitch 2: 10b, 130'

Continue up the good crack for another 30 feet, then traverse left to another crack. Tricky moves through a gold right facing corner, then traverse left again to another crack and the anchor.

Pitch 3: 11a, 115'

Follow the leftward crack to a bolt. Climb back down 10-15 feet, traverse left (11a) and back up to a pin, a bolt, and some 10- edging to the anchor.

Pitch 4: 5.9, 150'

5.7 knobs up and right with a knob tie off and a couple bolts for pro. Gain the ramp that brings you to a ledge and a bolt. Up and right to another left trending ramp. A short section of 5.9 guards the belay ledge.

Pitch 5: 5.11a, 115'

Edge and mantle past three bolts to gain the roof. Two more bolts protect fun climbing through steeper rock, then climb a left facing corner system. Natural anchor at good stance takes .5" to 2" cams. Sustained. Great pitch.

Pitch 6: 10b, 180'

Traverse right past a cool cave. A pin then three bolts protect more edging and slab climbing, then a right facing corner and easy terrain brings you to the top.

For what it's worth, of the 10 routes I've done on Fairview, Mithrandir is one of my favorites. It is one of my favorites in Tuolumne as a whole.

Start as for Sorcerer's Apprentice, 50' left of Lucky Streaks

Rack

2x small to .75 C4

1x #1 and #2

Nuts

Many slings

Optional #3 for pitch 1