Winds of Fortune

This is perhaps not as classic as other Bookend 3 star routes but a very good varied route with a thin 1st pitch crux and a burly 3rd pitch roof.

Start 200 feet around and right uphill of

OJ

following below the base of the offset buttress forming the Bookend's east face. Begin at a flat spot below a hanging flake and above that a small pine that marks the 1st belay station.

P1. Up the hanging flake (creaky) hand traverse right at a horizontal break to a stance. Cut back left via a thin crack to the belay pine, 5.10a, 100 feet.

P2. Easy up and left over a chasm to a belay at a juniper. This is only several ft right of

Sorcerer

/

Mariner

dihedrals.

P3. Climb into a pleasant chimney then handjam over a roof with a double crack 5.10a and complete a long pitch to a belay in a dihedral system.

P4. 200 feet of low 5th class to the summit.

This is to the right of

Sorcerer

/

Climb of the Ancient Mariner

.

Standard rack.