- Edit (TBD)
Description
Without question, The Seder (say-der) is the king line of the region. 70 feet of beautiful hand crack split the face of the hardest sandstone yet found in the state park. Sustained splitter climbing with some unique movement make for an exciting line that would be a classic anywhere. Commit to the mantle, plug your gear, and enjoy this true gem to the ledge below the true top. On the ledge, be very careful not to knock rocks down on your belayer. Clip the pin, place some small gear (.3-.5 BD), and commit to the sketchy and exposed 5.8 move on some of the worst rock of your life. A fall here could be disastrous. Avoid lowering on this climb to preserve the soft sandstone from rope wear. Top roping should only be done in a solo top rope style for the same reason. (IE a fixed rope)A word of warning: this is a strenuous and somewhat sketchy rock climb. Though it is a splitter and takes cams well, the rock in PDC should always be suspect even here. This is not an Indian Creek splitter and should be treated with serious respect.Anchor and logistics:
The best approach to climbing routes on this cliff is to access the top first, create an anchor using trees over 100ft back from the edge of the cliff, pad the edge liberally, and rap down the face. If you lead the route, DO NOT lower off the route. Instead rappel to prevent the top of the cliff from being abraded by your rope. THIS IS NOT a friendly cragging route. Treat this route like a half day endeavor and respect the rock. This is the BEST climb in the area, don't ruin it by letting your rope erode away the top. If you can't manage this, go climb somewhere else until you have picked up the skills necessary to climb this route like a ghost.
Location
The obvious splitter on the Red and White cliff.
Protection
2x .75, 4-5x #1, 4-5x #2 camalots. Single of .3-.5 to help protect the top. 4-5 shoulder link slings to reduce rope drag at the start and end (preserve the rock!). Anchoring can be done by using trees 100+ ft back from the top so bring a long static or a few extra ropes.DO NOT LOWER off this climb, doing so will damage the rock. You should also refrain from following or top roping this route except in a top-rope solo style to keep ropes from running on the edge. PROTECT THIS GEM!