The Dangerous Poodle

Start in the same spot as

A Farewell to Poodles

, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of

Head Over Heals

.

Traverse right along horizontal cracks to the left edge of a ceiling. Make hard and spooky moves up and right using a thin flake to gain the base of the

Head Over Heals

crack (after the roof portion of that route).

Follow the left leaning crack all the way to the top (

Head Over Heals

moves right into a different crack at a ceiling). In addition to the face move to gain the crack, there's another difficult move just after

Head Over Heals

jogs to the right at the ceiling.

The upper cracks on this route are quite fun.

Vogel's JT West guide has

Head Over Heals

drawn as going up the upper crack, when in fact almost everyone jogs right at the second ceiling and climbs up to the fixed anchor atop P1.

Start in the same spot as

A Farewell to Poodles

, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of

Head Over Heals

.

Carry a standard JT rack with perhaps extra hand-sized pieces.