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Peak Mountain 3

Pleasant St.

FA W Winkler, N Bergman, L Belanger 10/14/72
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Bombardment is clearly the first choice of moderates on this far left end... However if you have done that route enough times you might be looking for something new... This route is a great change of pace... Similar in style and a little easier in grade.... Not a hard line to find, just look for the big arch to the left of bombardment with a layback/jam crack in its corner...

Pitch one: 5.6 R A bit of a spook show for a new leader... Start up the crack to the small ledge at the far left end of the Lower Left wall... Climb up and right getting a piece in a horizontal crack before heading in to the unprotected section... Traverse right on to the slab till you get to a thin (and helpful) dike... Many people have a hard time cause they dont go far enough right... Make sure you find the dike... If you stay relaxed the climbing is a breeze... Climb to the nice ledge and belay at cracks or the (dying) tree, careful... I like to continue and do it in one long pitch...

Pitch 2: 5.7 Climb the arch, laying back and jamming with all the nice placements you dreamt about on pitch one... Continue on the arch till you get to the easy dike on the left... Head up then traverse right to the tree atop Bombardment...

Location

Same start as, then climbing the arch left of Bombardment 5.8...

Protection

Normal rack, the crux pitch eats up mid sized cams... pitch one doesnt eat much...