El Guapo

Stickclip the first bolt or use small cams in the crack at the start and make difficult moves past the first bolt. Difficulties gradually ease as you pass the next four bolts of climbing. From there, the angle lessens, and you can finish by going left to the top of

Bandito

or the anchor up and right.

I bolted this in 2017 but had previously led it on trad gear. I suspect, and have heard rumors of, at least one other person possibly climbing this on gear. While you can fiddle in gear, I felt like it was much better as a mixed climb with a bolted start, and at the time I bolted it, I had not heard or or seen evidence of any other ascents and despite climbing extensively at the area and on the route for years. That being said, I recognize it's possible in the often shady history of Unaweep that it may have been climbed and led and the chalk washed away and would completely honor a prior ascentionist.

Just right of the difficult start of

Bandito

is El Guapo, another route with a more difficult start and 5 bolts protecting the bottom of the route.

5 bolts and a light rack for the top of small to medium cams and stoppers.