PMS

While not jaw-droppingly stunning from the ground, this is 5.10 limestone face climbing at its best, with consistently incut holds on consistently steep terrain. It's very popular as a morning route, so be ready to stand in line. Two adjacent routes (

Ivory Tower

and Lee Sheftel's new route [name?]) at similar grades and a nice elevated view of a pretty stretch of river make this a nice hang.

Both of these routes are up and right of the Nappy Dugout (or Shit Cave, as it was known before porta-potties were installed in the Canyon) and start from the top of the dirt cone. PMS is the middle route and starts on easy, ledgy rock to reach a high first bolt behind the tree.

Continue past the bolt into a faint corner which terminates in a steep face. Sustained climbing takes you to an aesthetic finish on hidden holds.

10 quickdraws.