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Peak Mountain 3

Eyes of Buddha

FA Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz - January 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This line tackles a bouldery crux at a bulge between enjoyable, less difficult climbing to a higher point than other routes on this wall. Climb the lower part of either Feeling the Love (Full Route) or Dissimulation to the anchor at the big ledge.From the ledge take the bolt line straight up between the upper portions of Feeling the Love (Full Route) and Dissimulation . Slab it up pockets on lower angle rock to a corner where the rock steepens. Pull past a slightly crumbly flake and into a tough couple of moves to awesome, horizontally-opposed round pockets ("The Eyes") at the crux bulge. Pull hard moves on your choice of sharp crimps, marginal pinches and a couple of decent slopers to get your feet above the bulge and into less steep terrain. Easier but slightly awkward and licheny climbing leads past a few more bolts to the anchors way up there.

Location

Climb the lower part of either Feeling the Love (Full Route) or Dissimulation to the anchor at the big ledge then go straight up between the upper portions of Feeling the Love (Full Route) and Dissimulation

Protection

Seven or eight bolts to the big ledge (via Feeling the Love (Lower Half)) and then eight bolts from the big ledge to a two-bolt anchor with biners way up high and hidden from below. A 70m rope is required to lower from the top (highest anchors) to the ground.With a 60m rope, lower to the mid-point anchor on the big ledge, untie, pull the rope and lower from the mid-point anchor.Brown cable draws are on the two bolts at the crux.