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Peak Mountain 3

Abril Bypass

FA: Mike McEwen & Don Dimwiddy, 1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Climb up well protected crack in the corner below the huge roof past two trees. Enter the chimney to the left of the roof. Stem for about 15 feet then grab nice horn on the left to exit. Belay at double bolt anchors. P2. Climb right over ledge heading towards the pinnacle. There are bolts for the first few moves. Then you come to a constriction that takes gear. Double bolt anchors at the top. We rappelled down onto a fin climbers left, to double bolt anchors. Walk out the fin to find another double bolt belay. Rappel down to anchors at the top of pitch one. Return to the ground. Be careful with your rope as there are many points it can become lodged in a crack or around a chicken head.

Protection

Cams to #3, set of nuts.