- Edit (TBD)
Pig in Heat
Description
This route begins in the narrow crack a few feet to the right of Dung Fu and meanders up the face between that route and White Lightning. There's one lonely bolt about halfway up that you'll be most grateful for, assuming you don't detatch one of the tired, old flakes you must pull on to attain the bolt. If you do remove one of the lower flakes, you will be divided in twain; and that will put a pall on the rest of day for your companions. The pro is somewhat rare and marginal; the face is gritty; the runouts exciting and memorable. After negotiating the final crack near the top--good pro here; finish directly up 5.8 friction. Don't spoil things at this point and desperately grasp for the upper crack on White Lightning. Do the honorable thing. Here comes the good part: you'll never have to lead this route again because none of your buds will dare to ask you.
Protection
standard rack, one bolt (3/8")
Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
- 15Pig in Heat5.10-Trad