- Edit (TBD)
Description
Aphrotittie is another mega classic on the Upper Wall! Originally this route traversed in from an intermediate anchor halfway up Aphrodite, along a sloping ledge. At some point, a direct start was added that offers a great, steep crux sequence. It felt like 11a to me....
Climb a steep slab to a bolt 15' up, and move through fun 5.10 to reach a big ramp. Place a small piece or run it out to reach the second bolt, then enjoy steep, exposed 5.11- face to a small ledge. Gingerly make some spooky moves to the next bolt, and then fire another crux, placing another piece before the next bolt. The climbing stays on you basically the whole way.
It would be easy to TR this after leading Aphrodite, Dunn's, Sassafras, or Cig Arete. IMO one of the best face climbs in the area.
If leading this only with draws, be solid at the grade and expect legit, but doable runouts- a single large nut placement takes the R out of the upper crux.
Location
It is on the left side of the Upper Wall just to the right
Aphrodite
and to the left of
Cig Arete
.
Protection
Nuts, small gear, and 6 bolts.
Routes in The Upper Wall
- 2Aphrotittie5.11aTr · Trad