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Peak Mountain 3

Klingons in the Neutral Zone

FA EFR/ BKy 88
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Check out Bob Kerry's guide "Backcountry Rockclimbing in S. Az for more info about the route.

Another quality route up Golder !

Starts at ledge with tree and brown streaks. The route goes up the streaks to the dihedral on the left end of the lower face. We found around 5 new bolts and no pin with some route finding involved to get to the dihedral. Big moves on slab. (10c) 140 ft.

Continue up fun cracks and flakes up to a bigger flake. Laybacks and slab moves lead to the two bolt belay. The guide recommends a #4 but we were fine with a #3 blue (.10) 85ft

Head left from the belay and climb the funky dihedral. Follow cracks and powerful laybacks up a seam. After crux, follow wider cracks and head right past some bulges and slight overhangs to a medium sized pine tree at the summit. (.10d) 160ft The crux can be well protected just hang on and keep going. A worthy Sonoran alpine pitch with spice!

Additional info: Looks like the first pitch got all new bolts. all anchors upgraded for rappel. Also, there are no rap bolts by the tree at the top. You can sling the tree.

Protection

Doubles from 00 to #3. 15 slings 2 ropes. Rap the route


Routes in Golder Dome