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Peak Mountain 3

Hydraulic Sandwich

FA Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the leftmost of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the big roof on the left.

From the top of the Beer Can approach trail, scramble up to a small ledge with a 2-bolt belay anchor on the left side of the Beer Can.

Start with some easy climbing up and right, zig-zagging towards the left side of the huge roof. It's a good idea to use longer runners on these initial bolts. Clip the 5th bolt underneath the roof, and make an airy move out right on jugs (5.9) over the roof. Clip the 6th bolt, then unclip the 5th bolt to minimize rope drag and keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the roof. Above, the wall steepens and some thin face moves (5.10b) are needed to reach the anchor.

Protection

2-bolt belay anchor. 12 bolts to a three-bolt anchor. Bring several longer runners and a 60m rope.


Routes in The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)