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Peak Mountain 3

Truth and Reconciliation

FA E. + L. Stefke, 11/3/20, mostly GU, (last 5 bolts TD)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 (5.8, PG13) - Climb up the flake/crack (gear) to a point about 5' below the lip/roof.  Clip a bolt out right and move right/up to gain the lip.  Surmount the lip (bolt), then climb up easier ground (!gear!) to a low angle slab.  Climb the slab past two bolts to the anchor.

P2 (10b) - From the anchor move slightly left then up excellent face climbing past two bolts to easier ground.  Pass another bolt straight up to a shallow left facing flake/corner (gear) and another bolt.  From this bolt, move straight left for about 8-10' then find the easiest way up to the next bolt.  Move out left and diagonal up across small holds (10b), toward the left hand edge of the buttress (green alien in slot under lip).  Work the left edge (grainy), past the lip to another bolt and good stance.  Follow the last three bolts (10b) on fine crimps and smears to a big knob and the anchor.

Note: on the FA, my partner and I had quite differing perceptions of the two cruxes on the second pitch.  I thought the first crux was more in the 10b/c range and the second crux 10a.  She thought the first crux was 10a and the second crux 10b.

Location

On the left side of Lost Wall locate a large hanging tablet looking slab about 160' up.  The route approaches that feature from the right, then exits on the left side of the tablet.  Start from a (easily accessible) ledge at a shallow right facing corner/flake/crack and horizontal lip/roof.

Protection

ring anchors, 8 bolts + a handful of cams ranging evenly from green Alien to #2 Camalot, 70m rope