- Edit (TBD)
Description
Wild route. Starts in a shallow bolted chimney. Where climbing is easy, bolts are generously spaced. Bolts go up what is obviously a choss pile, about half way up the bolts break left out onto the arete. When you can't see your next bolt, it's likely out left. Clip the bolt, and grope up above it on the arete searching for a large mantleshelf. Mantle. Proceed up a cryptic arete. I highly discourage supplementing the bolts with trad gear. If you're not comfortable with long lead outs on 5.8 terrain, don't climb the route. The bolts are placed where the rock is least likely to fall out. Cams/nuts could potentially dislodge large blocks killing your belayer. Despite the choss middle section, the arete climbing is immaculate and immensely classic.
Protection
Steel lower-off biners.
Routes in Reids Basin
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