Me First

This weird route is more like a V2+ boulder problem with some forgettable 5.10 approach climbing and a gear-protected finish on easy slab. I enjoyed this route more for the novel puzzle than for the actual movement. Fortunately there is a small ledge that allows a person to down climb and recover while reconnoitering the crux before committing to the blind moves.

Once over the lip, a long 5.7 slab leads to the chains above—it's not a bad idea to bring 1.5" and 2" cams to protect the finish.

This route starts in the black, jumbled rock about 15 feet left of

Magic Fingers

and weaves up between the triangular corners and roofs at the top.

A couple of finger- to hand-size cams, 9 quickdraws, and a 60-meter rope.