- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb through the middle of the obvious roof. Interesting slab moves get you into an awkward position under the roof. Traverse right to the holds by the lip, then figure out your sequence for pulling over the lip. Delicate face moves get you to another small roof with easy climbing to the top.
Right now, there's only one bolt at the top, but it's easily accessed from the top, and there are plenty of places to add hand-size cams to make an anchor.
Note: it is best not to clip the bolt in the roof (bolt 4) until you're halfway through the traverse. I put the bolt in 100% the wrong spot, but once you clip it before making the move to the lip, you're glad it's there.
This granite had a ton of flaky rock on it that I've tried to clean off, but stuff will keep breaking until it gets climbed a bit. I'd probably give it another star if it weren't for the crumbly patina.
Location
It is in the middle of the obvious roof left of
Brontosaurus is Back
.
Protection
8 bolts + 1 hand-sized cam to complete the anchor.