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Peak Mountain 3

Cow Reggae

FA Frank Dusl
CREATED 
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Description

Cow Reggae is a short, technical route on some of the best stone The Wild Iris has to offer. Though barely 25 feet long, this route is very sustained, with multiple difficult moves, and an intricate crux just below the anchor.

Begin high up on the ramp, with a sinker 2 finger pocket for the right hand and an odd shaped four-finger thing for the left. Lunge up to the obvious huge jug, and move left along the break. Good holds lead to a sinker sidepull mono (right hand). The tweakiest move on this route is a long cross off of this mono, but once you figure out the feet its not too bad. The crux boulder problem begins just above with burly, tricky, insecure moves between two finger pockets & shallow dishes. Work up & left to a nice mailslot and a good shake. One more tricky sting in the tail leads to a great jug below the anchor.

Location

Fourth line of bolts from the right side of the Rodeo Wave, or the second route from the right that begins on the ledge.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Most folks stick clip the first two bolts to protect against a ledge fall, and run the rope through the first bolt of Stetson or Rodeo to keep the rope out of the way. The third bolt can be difficult to clip, so a long draw may be helpful.