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Peak Mountain 3

Bag of Stems

FA Bob Boyles, Mike Weber c.1975
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the chimney to the right of Unknown Leon. There is nowhere good to place protection until you go above and stand on a small boulder wedged in the bottom of the chimney, which is about 15 ft up. There are a couple horizontal cracks after that, and after that there is a 20 ft blank section. I climbed facing away from the cliffs, and about 5 ft below the anchor was a pocket behind me that was deep enough to stuff a C3 into.

The chimney walls are well featured and offer very secure stances. Bring a solid mental game.

Protection

BD C4 Camalots #1 - 0.75 and a couple tip size cams. Bring 2-3 slings to extend some placements. Chains to anchors at top.