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MapDescription
This is the chimney to the right of Unknown Leon. There is nowhere good to place protection until you go above and stand on a small boulder wedged in the bottom of the chimney, which is about 15 ft up. There are a couple horizontal cracks after that, and after that there is a 20 ft blank section. I climbed facing away from the cliffs, and about 5 ft below the anchor was a pocket behind me that was deep enough to stuff a C3 into.
The chimney walls are well featured and offer very secure stances. Bring a solid mental game.
Protection
BD C4 Camalots #1 - 0.75 and a couple tip size cams. Bring 2-3 slings to extend some placements. Chains to anchors at top.
Routes in Short Cliffs
- 32Bag of Stems5.7Trad