Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega-Motter on Han's Wall

The North Wall of the Middle Teton, accessed from the glacier, is a hard rock, north wall, mini paradise. The access ramp has been scrubbed by avalanches and water drips. There are tundra flowers and clean, overhanging rock.

Only Taylor has been climbed to the summit. The others have been climbed to the “end of the difficulties". The 5.13 has 1 pitch outstanding. The ground above the wall is mostly 4th and 5th class.

None the less there is good climbing and you can “easily” rappel back to your crag kit and sneaker crampons with 1 Rope.

There is also north wall hazards, including avalanche, wet rock, sharp rock, icefall and etc.

North wall of Middle Teton accessed by climbing the Middle Glacier.

Exit right into clean ramp, 5.4 but usually 3rd classed because of dripping water.

Then climb 1, 2 or 3 - 30 m pitches of 5.6 on the recommended ramp and set up under desired route.

Avalanche hazard exist from above and at exit, from summer, full-depth wet hard on rock slab bed, and also, wet loose in earlier season.

Full north wall rack for North Wall route and un-established pitches.

The 5.13 pitch requires 3 sets tiny, small, medium cams, and long draws.

Sneaker crampons recommended.