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Peak Mountain 3

Mountaineers Route

FA Rick Torre, Ken Rose. 1978.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Left of Skyport Chimney and Who Shot the Datsun.

To start, walk out right on a narrow ledge just before the loose section of the trail.

P1: (5.10b) Climb past one pine tree to a slabby corner and a Ponderosa with slings (for rappel). Continue up into a splitter finger crack that widens to a fist crack. Belay in alcove. No fixed anchor.

P2: (5.10a) Climb hand crack to a tree belay on the big ledge known as Mountaineers Ledge. 180 feet to the ground from here.

P3: (5.8) Go up corner to the right, step right around a roof and climb a corner to a ledge, use a gear belay.

P4: This is more of a traverse left to the rappel bolts. It is easy 5th class but very exposed and should be belayed. Traverse the ledge back west to the chains near the top of Six Kids and a Caddy.

Double-rope rappel.

-Joe Josephson, Lost Horse Canyon Climber's Guide.

Protection

Tree slung at first pitch for rappel, tree belay for third pitch on big ledge. Gear belay for fourth pitch. Rappel from chains near top of Six Kids and a Caddy.


Routes in Main Wall


  1. 1
    Mountaineers Route
    5.10b
    Trad