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Peak Mountain 3

My Way

FA Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 10/1/06
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

My Way climbs the arete left of the Boulder Slips route. Nice face and crack climbing in an airy position.

Start in the huge right-facing corner of Boulder Slips. After 15', move left to left-slanting slot. Clip a bolt and face climb past the slot to the top of a pillar. (You can also grovel up the slot, face up or face down, if you like that sort of thing). From the top of the pillar, move up and right on face holds to a stance just right of the arete. Place a 3/4" cam (green Camalot) in a crack around to the left and pull onto the arete.

Contine up cracks to a headwall. Step left and climb the face past two bolts. Move right and climb another crack. When it ends, move up a slab, clip a final bolt, and continue straight up to the bolt anchor just above.

Belay from here or lower 85' back down.

Location

On the right side of the crag, at the big right-facing corner of the Boulder Slips route.

Protection

Pro to 3" plus one bolt.  Double set of finger-sized cams (yellow Alien to green Camalot) useful. 2-bolt anchor at the top. This anchor can also be used to toprope Boulder Slips and Threshold Variation.