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Peak Mountain 3

Give Me a Squeeze

FA FKFA: T. Bubb, S. Abegg, 8/12/19
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Give Me A Good Squeeze is a good route between 2 established lines, sharing the top and bottom with those, and straightening out the distance between by riding up the clean face and arete to the right of

Scraping By

. This also keeps the grade more consistent at about 5.10-.  It is also cleaner with better movement.

Location

Start as for '

Scraping By

.' As soon as you pull over the first roof crux and onto the ledge, look up the face to the right for some intermittent seams and edges that stay left of the arete.

Place a few stoppers up in the corner as for '

Scraping By

; and then add long slings, as you will continue directly up the face on edges and seams. Key protection will be a solid #4 BD stopper in a tiny crack feature mid-face and then a small cam in another brief feature. There are just enough edges on the face to continue upward progress using those and the right hand out on the arete.

Work your way up to the end of the arete at a roof, placing a 1.5 to 2.5" cam under that before pulling up through that and to the anchors of

Prism

/

Scraping By

.

Rap 60' or so to the ground.

Protection

Take a #2/#3 Camalot for the bottom flake, a #0.5 for the overlap, and a #1 for the good jams above - clip all with long slings. Pull up into the corner on a ledge, place a few medium stoppers with long slings, and step up and right to ride the left side of the arete and face to the top, passing a KEY #4 BD stopper placement (crux gear) and a small (tips) cam. Then go up to the top of the face where a few small/medium cams protect the finish to the anchors.

While this gear can all be made solid and adequately protects the climb, this is not at all ideal for a beginner trad leader, who might fail to either see or place protection in the limited opportunities that are available.