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Peak Mountain 3

One-Armed Bandit

FA Larry Hamilton, Tom Kaufman. March 1976
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An enjoyable route that is a little more involved than Olive Oil. Expect ocassionaly poor protection and maybe some fragile rock.

Pitch 1 - 70' 5.7 Climb a left-facing corner to a bushy ledge, traverse right along the ledge and belay.

Pitch 2 - 100' 5.7 Climb onto the top of the pillar, zig zagging up ramp until it is possible to trend up and right across the face and belay above a big corner.

Pitch 3 - 80' 5.7 Climb the crack above to a belay in the base of a loose chimney. (bring wide gear or belay off slung block)

Pitch 4 - 140' 5.7 Continue up the chimney, and when it opens up climb the right facing corner above and the face to its right to reach a belay.

Pitch 5 - 110' 5.7 Climb the right facing corner above to a large ledge. Scramble up and right finishing at the top of Olive Oil.

Location

100 yards up the gully from Olive Oil is a brown left facing corner. Just to the left is a short steep right-facing corner formed by the right side of a small buttress/pillar. The route starts 50 yards further up the gully from this feature and is in the corner formed by the left side the pillar.

Protection

Single rack to to 3", optional 7"