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Peak Mountain 3

Something Wicked

FA Peter Kamitses
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Stand start with a right hand crimp and a left hand small sidepull crimp with a rock behind you. Make a big move up to a good crimp, match then move up and left with a big iron cross move off of a gaston. Continue up the the mesmerizing feature on sloping rails, sidepulls, underclings and slopers and huck for the massive quartz jug. Keep it together from here and continue up the face on large but sloping holds with long reaches to the top of the massive block.

This climb is five bolts and anchors at the top. The problem tops out on sloping perfect rock. The crux is the first three bolts. The landing is a bit uneven due to a smaller boulder to the right.

Location

From the parking pull off. Cross the road and follow the faint trail past a few small blocks. Keep going then look to the left and this climb is easily distinguishable from its height and aesthetic mineral striations and quartz features.

Protection

Bring a pad or two. Crux is the iron-cross, second crux is in the middle of the blob feature and the jump to jug. Top gets pumpy. Falls are relatively safe with a good catch.


Routes in Wicked Area