- Edit (TBD)
Description
Information on this route was hard to find, but this seems to be a direct line after pulling the Eros starting roof. Instead of traversing out left on the jug rail, pull the bulge and step right onto a sloping ledge. From here find the good jugs and clip the rusty bolt. Begin to move left and up on the crimps and jugs until you can find one or two finger/hand size cams. Finish at the obvious bolted anchor/rap station. Keep in mind that once you place the #1 cam under the roof, there is no suitable gear until the bolt. If you were to fall pulling this move you would likely hit the slab or pendulum into the dihedral (PG13/R section). The holds are pretty good once you find them, you just have to commit. Can be easily top-roped after leading the other routes.
I am still uncertain if Eros Variation listed in the Thomas Kelly guidebook follows a different line than Eros Direct. The topos in the two books seem to suggest they are different lines. Both are listed as 12a.
Location
Starts the same as Eros but follows a direct line up after the good #1 C4.
Protection
Small gear in the low dihedral, crucial #1 C4 at ledge (can be backed up if desired), bolt, finger/hand size cams.