- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is not a 4 star tower route, but it has interesting climbing and it is often warm and protected in the winter. ITs a bit obscure, so you probably won't meet anyone else up here, but its real close to town.
P1. From a small cedar below the south west face, go up and left through broken rock. A wide hand crack left of the broken corner is a bit easier to climb. Go over a roof and belay on a ledge on the west face. This pitches most redeemable quality is that it is over quickly... don't worry, the rock quality improves.
P2. Do face move protected by a bolt, perhaps 5.10+, then go up overlapping flakes to a large ledge about 60 feet above the last belay and below a large roof.
P3. Seems strange, but go up to the left in a short hand crack, then make slab moves, clipping bolts, across the slab above the belay. You want long runners for all your pro on this pitch. Move out right and around the arete and follow a good crack to another belay ledge. The slab is, at its hardest, 5.9 friction.
P4. This is the best of the group... make a hard 5.10 move out towards the arete, clip a bolt, then work your way up the arete with bolts for protection on very good rock. It breaks down into a corner, also protected by a bolt, then goes up some broken ground to the summit. This pitch is 10+ or 11-.
Rappel to the top of the 3rd pitch, then make a 160 foot rappel to the base.
All stations are bolted.
Location
This route is on the southwest face and arete of Podunk Mesa Tower.
Protection
Take 1 set of cams from .5 to #4 (friends). you might want an extra 3.5. You need at least 9 long quickdraws or slings.