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Peak Mountain 3

The Ruse

FA Wright, Anderson, 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Two routes left of

Cobble Wobble

, and in the main sector of this wall, The Ruse runs up to a potato chip flake near the top.

Getting off the ground is the first crux, and it is reachy and powerful. The entry sequence seems much harder than 5.11 until you get the sequence right. Run up the black streak and faint right, before jugging left (The Ruse). Getting to the anchor is cruxy, spooky, and committing. But you won't die if you miss the lip move.

Protection

Draws and a rope.