Imp-Passible Crack

This stellar roof crack is about 15 feet right of the main dihedral (

Diet of Worms

, 5.10a) on the crag. Climb the hand and fist crack over a bulge 8' off the ground to gain the no-hands rest directly below the roof crack. The roof takes good pro and the fall is clean (trust me...I tried it out). Fun stemming moves and strenuous jams will get you near the lip of the roof, but you have to get horizontal in the crack before you can clear the bulge. Pop over the roof and you're done.I was able to set a TR to the right of the crack and lower off to belay from the ground. There is some rope drag as the rope tries to wedge at the lip of the roof, but it isn't bad, and lowering off lets you enjoy watching your partner as they grunt out the roof. Surprisingly, this route doesn't get a star in Rossiter's book. I would've given it 3 stars on this site, except for its length. The gymnastic moves and good jams will produce a bigger pump than you might expect from a 30' route. If only it had a 100' hand crack leading up to the roof it might get the 3 stars.

This route is short enough to be done with a single rack of cams. The most obvious anchor would require a second #3 Camalot (having used one on the pitch) but if you look up and right you can get an anchor with the .5 and .75 that you didn't use on the route.