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Peak Mountain 3

Unclaimed

FA 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Like its neighbors, Unclaimed's crux breaks through the headwall. This route has the most difficult solution to that obstacle. Climb up tilted block to its end, then friction w/out pro on chocolate-colored rock until it becomes dirty. Work right across the filth, then up and left to the headwall, belaying behind a spruce tree at the base of a 6' tall vertical crack. Climb the crack into the corner above, then step across right, crossing a left-facing flake with a good crack in it, to ascend the unprotected, knob-riddled slab on top of the flake. The knobs end as the angle eases; weave upward, veering to the occasional protection crack as you head for a spruce tree that blocks the final 20' of low-angle slab.

Location

Begin at the lower left corner of the tilted "flagstone" block at the base of the main slab. Descend via rappel off trees.

Protection

Standard Rack plus a wire brush.


Routes in Unnamed Slabs