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Peak Mountain 3

Standard Desert Crack

FA Robert Rowsam, Peter Blank, Mickey Guziak, May 18, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

There may be a reason why this is one of the last big towers to be climbed in The Monument. This being said, it is one of the most incredible summits The Monument has to offer.

P1. We went up a cruddy chimney which exits a small roof (C2) and eases over to some 5.9 R (bad pro). The first half is possible to avoid but would require some unprotected traversing. Belay near a ledge with big cams.

P2. Walk left on a good ledge to connect with a beak seam which gains the upper crack system. Mixed aid/free with lots of hollow sounding (scary) flakes with good cracks (hands -#6) in the back. Pull through a kitty litter section, and continue up to a small roof. Some tricks and some smaller cams will get you to the summit.

Location

Start in the obvious chimney on the northeast side of the tower. An old drill steel points you in the right direction.

Protection

A standard desert rack and 2 x 70m ropes (one rappel).


Routes in Esoterica Tower


  1. 2
    Standard Desert Crack
    5.9
    Trad · Aid