Bit by Bit

This is a fun, challenging route that takes the hanging arete to the right of

Inverted Vee

(just right of the

Parallels

/

Foxtrot

area of the W. Ridge.) Similar to Aerospace but it's a bit harder and uses the arete more. Great rock. Mark Hammond got the first redpoint.

Either belay on the ground or scramble 25 feet to a good ledge and belay. NOTE: If you belay on the ground, the leader must rappel! You cannot lower from the top with a 60-meter rope if you belay on the ground! A doubled 60-meter rope just reaches the good ledge.

Climb the first 40 feet of

Inverted Vee

(awkward 5.8), protected with wires and hand-sized cams. From a wide stem, clip the first bolt on the face to the right. From the second bolt, move right to the arete and climb past two more bolts with very tenuous moves and clips. The moves are definitely harder than the clips, but it's all hard, thin, and [balancy]. The major difficulties end at a big stance. Continue up the arete past two more bolts, then move around to the right. Stem rests are possible on the chimney wall to the right, but the chockstones can (and probably should) be avoided. Anyway, the climb moves back left on a narrow, hanging slab past one more hard move at the last bolt. You'll find the anchor over the huge roof.

Remember: You MUST have a 60-meter rope to get down from this anchor (or two ropes), and your belayer must be at the ledge if you lower off!

Pitch 2: Climb the short arete and face up and right from the anchor. (You may want to move the belay up for a more comfortable stance.) Fun and somewhat spicy 5.8 or 5.9. RPs necessary. Probably R-rated.To descend, scramble down to climber's left (descender's right) to find a big tree with slings around it. A short rap with a swing to the right gets you back to the bolted anchor. Most people will do just the first pitch.

Small rack of wires and hand-sized cams for the start. 8 bolts. RPs if you do second pitch.