Forever

"Forever" is a hybrid route that requires rock climbing and route finding like you might have in the alpine, but above the prairie and not in the high mountains. The thing I would liken it to is the regular route on Shiprock, but with much better rock quality and far more permanent protection.

The route ascends 2,500 feet of mostly excellent rock that is broken into 4 different sections by steep hiking. This route is bolted in European-alpine style, so there are bolts at the cruxes and a few per pitch, but you may want some gear as well. The first ascent was done without cams, but we recommend a single rack of cams from .4 to 3 Friend. All protections is stainless steel and the anchors are set up in French style and do not need webbing for equalization.

Like Colter's Spire, the name is tied to the history of the area. In the Fall of 1877 Chief Joseph led the Nez Perce through Yellowstone National Park while attempting to elude the U.S. Cavalry. They descended out of the park via Clark's Fork Canyon and camped below this massif of rock, then continued north towards Canada. They were caught and surrendered in early October of that year. Chief Joseph said, in his surrender speech to General Oliver Howard,  "I will fight no more forever." In memory of the chief, the tribe, and the history that is tied to this area, we gave it the name. Also, by the time you get to the 18th pitch you will probably say to yourself, "damn, this thing goes on forever."

IMPORTANT: The route is anchored so that it can be descended on a 70 meter rope (Not a 68 meter rope!). However, many of those rappels will go right to the end of your rope on an open face. Always tie knots. All bolts are stainless steel and should last at least half a century. Experienced parties should take a crescent wrench to possibly tighten up some anchors as stainless can loosen up over time (don't over tighten).

P1         Climb up and right then up a corner system to an anchor or a large tree. 5.7 35m

P2        Climb up a corner and left over a bulge to a stance. 5.7, 25m

P3        Go up and right on excellent rock to a stance. 5.7, 30m

P4        Climb over a couple of roofs to a ledge below the scree field. 5.8, 33m

P5        Walk up a blunt ridge of rock, trees, sage, and bighorns, to the broken buttress of rock    behind a set of large trees. Find the start  righ of a broken corner. 3rd class, 100 meters

P6        The "Sap Pitch." Go up and over a couple of bulges to a belay at a large tree. 5.5, 20m

P7        Go behind the tree. Climb up the slab behind a second tree to a belay in a scoop.5.6,  30m

P8        climb up to another scoop clipping bolts and placing the odd cam. 5.10a, 30M

P9        Climb up and right on smooth rock to a ledge below the trees. 5.10a, 25m

P10      Walk up to the wall and then right to the highest tree. 3rd class, 50M

P11      Climb up and left following a crack and then a ledge to the next ledge with an anchor      next to a small tree. 35m 5.9

P12      Climb up and right, over a roof and past runnels to a large ledge. 25M, .10a

P13      The "Runnel Pitch." Climb up right of a corner then follow runnels to a scoop. Do a slab   move to a ledge and anchor. 35M, 5.8 (easy if tall).

P14      The "Air Pitch." Climb up and left past a dead tree to an exposed arete. Follow it up and back right to a high anchor at the start of the trees. Use long slings on everything as          there will be drag. 50M, 5.5

P15      Move over a couple slabs and into the trees amid loose scree and dirt. Move up and        right to the highpoint of the trees. Belay the next pitch left of a buttress of rock next to a         dead tree. Its about 75 feet down and right of the highpoint in the alcove. 3rd class,  80meters

P16      The crux. Traverse up and right on questionable rock. Go over the bulge and do a             boulder problem and then follow the slab to a stance anchor. You can also clip it and          continue right to a small tree on a better ledge. These bolts can be clipped as an aid        ladder with an easy 5.10 move here and there or by standing in a sling. 5.12a or A0     (obl.5.10a) 20

P17      Traverse right on scree and ledges broken by rock slabs, passing a rappel anchor, to a      large    ledge on the arete with a good anchor (no rap rings). Use long slings for the few      bolts.   50M, 5.4

P18      Climb up a crack to a large hueco, then over a bulge and up a gully. Look 15 feet left to    your rappel anchor to be used in the descent. Continue up and right to a scree covered      ledge with some trees. There is an anchor high and right on the ledge. 50M. 5.9

P19/20 Go up and left past some high trees in a secluded alcove. Either add a pitch by     belaying at one of the trees or continue up a broken face to an anchor  on a rock face       below another tree. 32M, 5.4

P21      Climb to a cool summit with spectacular views. 15M, 5.5 Sign the register.

Descent:

To descend the route with only a 70 meter rope, use these variations from the climbing route.

The highest rappel variation is from a stance on the arete left of the midpoint of pitch 18. It drops you onto the ledge you traverse for pitch 17. The second highest rappel variation is from a stance midway across pitch 17. This one is 35 meters to the forest below. Walk down and find the anchor atop pitch 14. The third variation is rappelling from pitch 14 anchor straight down to a second anchor on the left side of a gully. Its about 50 feet below. From that anchor rappel hard left (south) to the anchor for the Runnel Pitch. IT is a rope stretcher so tie knots in the ends. Note that the next rappel takes you to an anchor 6 feet above the belay ledge... again, knots in your rope. Do that rappel to the top of Pitch 11. From this one it is another stretcher.... go down to the tree you began this section on and you will reach. If you go straight down you will be disappointed. One more thing to note is the very bottom rappel at pitch one also requires you to traverse right (reversing exactly how you climbed it.) Always watch and knot your ends and you will be fine.. Or purchase an 80M rope before this route.

Find the start 1/2 mile west of the highway and up a gully roughly 100 yards right of the most prominent white streak. There is a large couloir of orange and yellow rock above it.

The route was climbed with a dozen draws and a few long slings. However, you might wants a small selection of cams (.4 - 3)