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Peak Mountain 3

El Camino Real

FA Royal Robbins, Harry Daley and Janie Taylor, November 1961
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From

Fingertrip

, walk around and up about 80 feet. Look for a pine tree with it top missing - that is the base of the climb. 3rd class up to it.

Pitch 1 - (5.10a) Bouldery start just left of a thin, thin crack up to a small overlap move left and up. Belay at a block ledge. Be careful with you anchor here.

Pitch 2 - Climb past 2 bolts then make a long friction traverse left past another bolt to the Jungle. Belay here.

Pitch 3 *** -(5.10a) Climb up the classic lieback crack for 80 feet. Pro is good, but at the top I would sink a good piece in and go for a small run out. The crack gets thin and less secure. 2 bolt belay.

Pitch 4 - Climb the (5.8) crack up and left then traverse right to join Jensen's Jaunt.

Or at end of pitch 3 you can mover over and down to get in to Traitor Horn, which makes for a great climb.

Protection

Pro is several thin to 2 inches