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MapDescription
Climb a vertical, black face with edges up and left past three bolts to a ledge, then continue up the slab above past two more bolts to a difficult crux that's not especially fun. Once past the crux, one more bolt of easy climbing leads to the top.
It's possible on the upper portion to cut left into the corner and stem your way up as you reach right to clip the bolts - this keeps the grade at 5.10 and makes the route more enjoyable.
- This was one of the first routes on the wall and originally had four bolts (the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th) and no anchors, but was later retro-bolted to make it a better protected - unfortunately the crux remains unappealing.
Location
Located just right of
Motherlode
and 10' left of
Psychedelic Sluice
, a low-angled, splitter hand crack.
Protection
6 bolts, chain anchor
(all bolts 1/2" SS)
- Bolts replaced 2019
Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face
- 11Black Bart5.11aSport