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Description
An eight pitch line up the best rock in the center of Mamie Peak. A techy three pitch slab leads to five spectacular and exposed pitches up the center of a knob and crack riddled buttress. Sustained 5.10 face, friction and crack climbing with a couple 5.11- cruxes for good measure. Protection is generally excellent and most hard moves could be pulled through if need be. See topo for pitch details.
The route is easily and quickly rapped with a single 70m rope. On the big ledge find the rappel anchor about 30' to climbers left of the top of Pitch 3. The sixth pitch has a tendency to eat ropes while rappelling. To avoid this place a leaver biner on the second bolt and have the last person down clip the pull strand through the biner. Several rappels are near the full 35m, tie backup knots!
Location
Follow the approach in the Mamie Peak Description. Ellation starts up a series of shallow grooves above and left of the single pitch crag. Look for a couple bolts on the first pitch.
Protection
Fixed anchors. Most pitches are partially bolted, requires a medium rack to 3" including doubles of fingers to tight hand cams and at least 10 draws/slings.
Routes in Mamie Peak
- 1Ellation5.11-Alpine · Trad