- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route climbs almost directly under the Dolphin Head/Southern Exposure rap line.
Start at the base of a large tree just left of the rap line (same start as Shaky Flake). Once off the ground venture out onto the face to your right heading up towards a bulge. Dodge the bulge to the right and then quickly cut back left to get back on the rap line.
The middle third of the route continues straight up the rap line. It is steep and the holds are not as incut as those on other 6s at Moore's. Also, the gear in this section is not overly-plentiful.
Near the top the route joins Southern Exposure to finish in a short steep chimney-like feature.
The original tree+chockstone anchor is a bit on the fragile side. If you wish to extend the life of this anchor, you should build an independent anchor for bringing up your second, and only use the tree+chockstone for the rappel. Alternatively, climb 10' higher and use the newer hex-based anchor.
Location
Starts at the base of a large tree at the bottom of the Dolphin Head/Southern Exposure rappel line.
Protection
Standard Moore's rack.
Routes in Central Wall
- 5Chockstone Rap Line5.6Trad