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Peak Mountain 3

Pay Dirt

FA The Swamp Donkeys, 12/2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Note: These ratings are my opinion and are only a suggestion in relation to the pitches in this area.P1: (5.9 R ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️) Fun, easy crack climbing leads to a large and friendly chimney. Run it out through the chimney (a BD 7 protects this well) then leave a 4 Camalot in the roof and then pull it on huge jugs (5.9). From here bump another 4” then 5” cams up the awesome splitter crack to the Squatter’s Ledge. The ledge has a two bolt anchor on the right (Pay Dirt) and on the left (WWDN). ~100’

P2: (5.8 ⭐️⭐️) Directly above the P1 anchor is a right facing corner. To get there either go straight up the unprotected easy slab or step right into an easy corner. Both options reach a lieback crack (fun with awesome FM titon placements!!) in the right facing corner. At the top of the lieback is another chimney. Climb the chimney until an improbable looking roof is reached then place a 4-5” cam. Lieback or use face pockets to climb out of the small roof (5.8) to a sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor. 115’

P3: (4th class) It is suggested to rappel from the top of P2. Tie knots it’s a full 35 meter rap. If you’d like to get to the top, you can go up a dirty gully system and top out with a boulder belay.

Descent: Rappel the Lost Dutchman route. The raps start 25’ left of the top of P3. Look for the big cairn and easy down climb to the ledge below. Use the climber’s right side bolted anchor to begin the rap. Three single rope rappels to the ground.

Location

About halfway along the wall. The start has a couple of boulders below it that make for a nice belay area. Look for the obvious chimney and splitter crack above

Protection

70M rope, doubles BD .3-4, single 5 & nuts, optional 7, extra 4s.