- Edit (TBD)
Description
The routes name should be a fair enough warning but those wanting to experience a lesson in mind control, this tower should not be missed. Begin just to the right of the incredibly loose flake (cams are useless here as well as jams...this thing is that loose) and head to one good bolt and one useless (Leeper) bolt. After second bolt, traverse left to another bolt--don't blow the traverse. The climbing above this bolt is 5.8 in the begining but fairly serious due to the nature of the flexing rock and potential to land on a ledge, keep your mind quiet and aim for another mind altering piece of hardware (optional belay). Engage the crack and climb to a neat, pocketed and cave like pseudo-summit.
Pitch 2 is much shorter and is protected by a single piton to pull the 5.10 move off the deck. Build a nice anchor in the chance your partner blows the moves and/or the piton rips and they end up flying down the other side.
**The original description notes a piton (RURP) on P1, that was pulled out by hand. We attempted to replace piton, that exploded the rock and was pointless. A bolt was placed. Should the Leeper bolt above have to stop a fall, the bolt we placed will become useless as well (you will hit the deck).
Location
The tower south of Flagship, the southern most tower of the Los Bandito Spires. The route begins on the south side of the spire just above a steep, loose gulley.
Protection
Nuts, cams to #4 (#5 optional), four bolts (original Leeper is worthless), one piton
Routes in Los Bandito Towers
- 6Bat Pinnacle (via Death Wish)5.10bTrad