New Species

We recently climbed a new route at Big Green Mountain:

NEW SPECIES, 5.10b/c

Start by locating Danger of Extinction (5.9+R/X) in the guidebook and take the trail uphill - climber's left. Soon you will see a large left facing dihedral which is a route not in the guidebook called "Grand Delusion" 5.11a.

P-1 Start by climbing the Grand Delusion slab past two bolts and climb up and right above a small tree and around a corner (5.7+/-) and gain the mossy ledge. There you will see a new bolt anchor.

P-2 Continue up the truly beautiful left facing corner (the moves between bolt one and bolt 2 are both cruxy) past 4 bolts (5.10 b/c) until the terrain backs off a bit. Take a combination of larger gear (up to a #3 camelot) and some small wires to make the terrain above bolt four less run-out. This pitch is nearly a full rope length and will take you to a new 2 bolt ring anchor. This pitch is directly above Doc Bayne's route, Danger of Extinction which involves some very serious run-out - we have recently replaced Doc's 2 FA bolts for what it is worth but it remains as climbed (with serious fall potential at the top) - - our pitch gets your attention and is steeper and harder but a lot less dangerous and super fun - 2 rappels down the route to the ground. FA: Shannon Stegg, Drew Dekle, Greg Allen, Ben Lyon, Margaret Tanner

Big Green Mountain - go far climber's left - this would be the natural second pitch to Danger of Extinction (in Shull Guide) - go up the trail more and gain the ledge by our less run-out pitch one that starts on Grand Delusion (the big left facing corner) which is also worth doing - 2 bolts and an anchor - 11a

P-1 - 2 bolts and a small rack of medium cams

P-2 - 4 bolts - need up to #3 camelot and small wires to make upper section less runout