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MapDescription
A crack system with a traverse, Pencilneck starts off with a flake that doesn't feel too solid, then crosses right into a thin vertical crack. This crack does protect acceptably, but climbs well. At the top of this crack it changes to an exceptional but short, finger/hand crack that traverses right. Follow this up to another short crack, this one a left facing dihedral. Finish up.
Location
Just left of
Eraserhead
is a right-facing flake. This is the shared start of this route and
Hollow Excuses
.
Pencilneck
crosses right immediately.
Protection
Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Small gear for the thin crack, and some runners. It shares the anchors with Eraserhead, so a bring extra slings (or chains) for the anchor.
Routes in The Millstone
- 16Pencilneck5.10cTrad