We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Pencilneck

FA Keith Maas, Gordon Douglas 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A crack system with a traverse, Pencilneck starts off with a flake that doesn't feel too solid, then crosses right into a thin vertical crack. This crack does protect acceptably, but climbs well. At the top of this crack it changes to an exceptional but short, finger/hand crack that traverses right. Follow this up to another short crack, this one a left facing dihedral. Finish up.

Location

Just left of

Eraserhead

is a right-facing flake. This is the shared start of this route and

Hollow Excuses

.

Pencilneck

crosses right immediately.

Protection

Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Small gear for the thin crack, and some runners. It shares the anchors with Eraserhead, so a bring extra slings (or chains) for the anchor.