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this is given as 10b in the book and just as hard as Spank to me. While more fun to climb and slightly easier to protect, it has some super hard moves that are way harder than 10b. The super hard moves are especially hard to protect.
I did a little cleaning on this, but the lower half is very chossy.
Location
the wall tends to have inny and outy sections, this is on a outer buttress and there are alcoves on either side, on the left is Fist for Pleasure and further right is Butcher of Baghdad.
on the right side of a column that has the giant horn at the top.
Protection
mostly in the finger size- up to #1, one fixed pin, anchor at the top .5, .75, #1, #2.
Rap off Freak of the week to the west - a cairn there.
Routes in Middle East Wall
- 6Closet Catamite5.11aTrad