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Peak Mountain 3

Tree Route

FA Raffi Bedayn, Carl Jensen, & Randolf May - 5/39 FFA Tom Frost -1960
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route will really have you monkeying around!

Pitch 1) Once you reach Pulpit Rock, the SE face is on the left side of the spire. Head up the steep gully until you see a zig-zag crack about 15 feet downhill from a cedar tree. The route starts here. Climb the crack for approximately 25 feet until you reach the bottom of a left-leaning dihedral. Don't climb this dihedral. Instead, traverse right on edges, then face climb up through flakes and edges into an alcove below an eye-shaped roof. 5.9.

Pitch 2) Climb straight up into an overhang and traverse a clean, splitter, finger crack to the left. Pull the roof crack (.9) and climb up to a large ledge with a tree on it.

Pitch 3) From the tree, pull edges (.7) to gain a slab that takes you to the top.

This climb could be done in one pitch but the rope drag would be bad on the final slab. Most parties link pitch 2 & 3.

Location

The start is obvious. Find the tree below the notch and a steep section of dirt. You can try to avoid climbing the tree but the face is harder than it looks.

Rappel 80ft into the notch on the south side of the pulpit from a rappel station.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" Nothing big. Extra slings. One rope.


Routes in Southeast Face